Short answer: Just moved in, lost a key, or want to make sure an ex or an old roommate can't walk back in? You've got two paths, and one is usually far cheaper than the other. Here's how to pick the right one without paying for hardware you don't actually need.
Just moved in, lost a key, or want to make sure an ex or an old roommate can't walk back in? You've got two paths, and one is usually far cheaper than the other. Here's how to pick the right one without paying for hardware you don't actually need.
Rekeying keeps your existing locks bolted right where they are and simply changes the pins inside the cylinder so that your old keys stop working and a new key takes over. Because the locksmith is reusing all the hardware you already own, you're mostly paying for a bit of labor and a small set of pins — which is why per-cylinder rekeying is often in the modest range of roughly $15–$50 per lock on top of a service call, depending on your area and the lock. It's the right move in a lot of common situations: you've moved into a home and have no idea how many old keys are floating around, you lost a key and want the found-it version voided, or a housemate moved out. There's a bonus most people don't know about — a locksmith can 'key-alike' several rekeyed locks so one single key opens your front, back, and side doors, which is pure convenience at almost no extra cost.
Rekeying only makes sense if the hardware itself is worth keeping. Replacement earns its higher price when the lock is physically worn, corroded, loose in the door, or damaged; when you want to step up in security grade to a sturdier ANSI-rated deadbolt; when you're moving to a keypad or smart lock; or when a hodgepodge of mismatched finishes has been bugging you and you want the whole house to match. Because you're now buying the lock body plus labor to install it, costs climb accordingly — a basic replacement deadbolt might be a modest hardware cost, while high-security or smart-lock hardware commonly runs into the low-to-mid hundreds before installation. Those figures swing widely with brand and features, so treat them as ballpark ranges. The upside is you're not just changing who has a key — you're upgrading the actual barrier at the door.
Run through four questions. Is the existing hardware solid and smooth to operate? Do you mainly just need old keys to stop working? Are you happy with the security level and style you already have? And how many doors are involved? If the hardware is in good shape and your real goal is voiding old keys or getting fresh copies, rekeying is almost always the better value. If the locks are tired, you want to upgrade security or go keyless, or you're chasing a consistent look, replacement is worth the extra outlay. Many jobs end up as a sensible mix — replace the one beat-up exterior deadbolt, rekey the rest, and key them all alike. When you're genuinely unsure, describe your locks and your situation to a locksmith over the phone; a good one will steer you toward the cheaper fix when the cheaper fix is the right one, with no guarantees offered beyond what the hardware can honestly deliver.
Rekeying keeps your existing locks bolted right where they are and simply changes the pins inside the cylinder so that your old keys stop working and a new key takes over. Because the locksmith is reusing all the hardware you already own, you're mostly paying for a bit of labor and a small set of pins — which is why per-cylinder rekeying is often in the modest range of roughly $15–$50 per lock on top of a service call, depending on your area and the lock. It's the right move in a lot of common situations: you've moved into a home and have no idea how many old keys are floating around, you lost a key and want the found-it version voided, or a housemate moved out. There's a bonus most people don't know about — a locksmith can 'key-alike' several rekeyed locks so one single key opens your front, back, and side doors, which is pure convenience at almost no extra cost.
Rekeying only makes sense if the hardware itself is worth keeping. Replacement earns its higher price when the lock is physically worn, corroded, loose in the door, or damaged; when you want to step up in security grade to a sturdier ANSI-rated deadbolt; when you're moving to a keypad or smart lock; or when a hodgepodge of mismatched finishes has been bugging you and you want the whole house to match. Because you're now buying the lock body plus labor to install it, costs climb accordingly — a basic replacement deadbolt might be a modest hardware cost, while high-security or smart-lock hardware commonly runs into the low-to-mid hundreds before installation. Those figures swing widely with brand and features, so treat them as ballpark ranges. The upside is you're not just changing who has a key — you're upgrading the actual barrier at the door.
Run through four questions. Is the existing hardware solid and smooth to operate? Do you mainly just need old keys to stop working? Are you happy with the security level and style you already have? And how many doors are involved? If the hardware is in good shape and your real goal is voiding old keys or getting fresh copies, rekeying is almost always the better value. If the locks are tired, you want to upgrade security or go keyless, or you're chasing a consistent look, replacement is worth the extra outlay. Many jobs end up as a sensible mix — replace the one beat-up exterior deadbolt, rekey the rest, and key them all alike. When you're genuinely unsure, describe your locks and your situation to a locksmith over the phone; a good one will steer you toward the cheaper fix when the cheaper fix is the right one, with no guarantees offered beyond what the hardware can honestly deliver.
Send a request through the site with your location and what you need, and you will get a straight answer and an honest estimate before any work begins.
Request service — tell us what you need and we will reply with a straight answer and an honest estimate.